The Isle of Sanibel
So many people refer to Southwest Florida as ‘purgatory on land’, and while yes, the average age in SWFL is probably 65-70, trust me when I say, Sanibel Island is the perfect definition of paradise.
For as long as I can remember, Sanibel has been my second home, my stress-free retreat, and my quiet respite. But more than that, the time we spent on Sanibel was the quality family time my family and I needed to just get away, and spend time with each other without getting caught up in the hustle and bustle of our every day lives at home. I can’t tell you how many fake spaceships my brother and dad built out of sand on the beach for us to play in. I would then meticulously put shells in the ‘dashboard’ of the spaceship and prepare for blast off. And the number of splinters we got from running up and down the boardwalk to the beach is immeasurable. It felt like each day was a new discovery- whether we tried a new fish, rode down a new bike path, or discovered a new restaurant or store- each day on Sanibel was (and still is) an adventure.
where to stay/eat
There are a few resorts on the island, but my favorite is definitely Casa Ybel- a Gulf Front resort located on the eastern side of the island. It has a spa, all kinds of outdoor activities, and a couple of great dining options. It is located in a quieter area of the island which serves as a great opportunity to get away from the high season chaos, but the resort offers regular trolley rides over to some of the stores and the more happening part of the island (about a 5-10 minute drive).
While the resorts are fun, and definitely easier, I would highly recommend just renting a condo or house when you go. Most often, the rental properties are beachfront and have pools. But the privacy of having your own space can’t be beat. I would start with Select Vacation Properties- they have some great options! And if you’re really thinking about renting on the island, scroll up to the top and send me an email via the Contact Me form! I can make recommendations on where to stay!
As far as dining goes, my family and I have a few tried and true favorites- but for the most part, you can’t really go wrong with any restaurant- they all get shipments of fresh local fish in every day, and it’s pretty hard for a Floridian to screw up fish! The key to dining out on Sanibel is to eat LOCAL. Don’t order some Alaskan salmon, or Chilean seabass when you can get a piece of absolutely delicious local fish that has never been frozen.
The Timbers is arguably my favorite place to go for dinner. It is a classic old Florida spot- that all the locals frequent too! Best thing to get? CRUNCHY GROUPER. You’ll thank me later. Other must-order options: oysters Rockefeller, clams casino, Manhattan clam chowder, and any of their local fish (snapper, grouper, hog fish, triple tail etc.) bronzed or blackened.
Doc Fords is a very very close second. It is a little newer than The Timbers, but was inspired by a fictional character in a book series written by local Sanibel resident, Randy Wayne White. The restaurant has a fun, sports bar feel, but with excellent food. My favorites: Yucatan peel-and-eat shrimp, Panko crusted grouper, deep water mahi mahi, campeche fish tacos, and the banana leaf snapper. And in my opinion, their key lime pie is the best on the island if you’re craving a slice (which you should be)!
Another old faithful is Traders. With great live music in season, excellent upscale food, it is a great spot to go for a change of pace. We love the oysters Florentine, macadamia crusted grouper, scallops, blackened mahi mahi, and even the parmesan crusted chicken!
Head to George and Wendy’s for their tuna nachos- one of the absolute best things on the whole island. I’ve even ordered them as my entree because they’re so good!
Lazy Flamingo is an institution. Everyone knows it, everyone loves it, and if you go and don’t order the conch chowder and/or conch fritters, you’ll regret it. Some of my fondest memories on the island stem from Lazy Flo. We always used to catch the early morning flight down to Ft. Myers, and were on the island by lunch time, so we would always stop for some lunch before heading to our condo. As I mentioned above, the conch chowder is really something special, and unique! We also love the blackened grouper sandwich or Caesar salad. But you really can’t go wrong with anything.
The Island Cow is a funky little place great for breakfast or lunch. As you can imagine, the decor is all things cows which is so cute and hilarious for an island restaurant in Florida! They serve up great food, for good prices, and a fun atmosphere!
If you’re craving something sweet, there are two places to go. Joey’s Custard is our favorite. They have small batch, homemade frozen custard that is to DIE for, all kinds of fun toppings, frozen yogurt, homemade ice cream, the list goes on! My dad’s favorite thing to get is called a gelati- it’s Italian ice layered with frozen custard. Pinocchio’s is also such a fun spot to check out! They make their ice cream in house, and have come up with a few fun flavors of their own. My favorite is Sanibel Krunch- a vanilla ice cream, chock full of toasted coconut, chocolate chunks, and pecans. Such a good combo!
But Liz, what is there to do on Sanibel?
Don’t fret, my friends. I’ve got you covered. If you’re tired of the beach (not sure how you could ever be…), there is plenty of fun to be had!
Start with renting some bikes to explore on your own, or even a vespa from Billy’s if you’re feeling adventurous. They also offer Segway tours of the island which are a blast to do, especially if you’re a first timer.
Shop your way through Periwinkle Place- it’s a cute little mall full of the most unique boutiques and local arts/crafts. Periwinkle Place is also home to my favorite island spa- The Sanibel Day Spa. Stop in for a massage- you’ll leave feeling like a new person!
Drive over to Tarpon Bay Explorers. There, you can rent kayaks, pontoon boats, paddle boards, canoes, and even fishing equipment. You can also go on all kinds of nature tours- my favorite is the low tide kayaking tour! If you don’t feel comfortable driving your own pontoon boat, you can charter a captain and he or she will take you out into the bay for the day and go fishing! Some of the best local fish is the mangrove snapper you catch in the bay.
Stop in at CROW- the island’s wildlife rehabilitation center. You may even get to meet some of their patients!
Drive or Bike your way through Ding Darling. As the islands biggest wildlife refuge, Ding Darling is home to 6,400 acres of mangrove forest, tons of different species of birds, alligators, and even a Florida bobcat or two! Along the drive, there are places to stop, lookouts to climb, and definitely a few docents who are always willing to share their wildlife knowledge with you!
The Sanibel Shell museum is a great place to learn about all of the different shells you’ve seen on the beach, and about how the marine ecosystem works.
If you’re in the mood for a Watersport or two- drive up to Captiva Island and pop into YOLO Water sports. From parasailing, to jet-ski rentals, to banana boat adventures, YOLO has it all!
The golfer in me could go on about all of the different FL golf options you have if you’re at all interested, but I’ll keep this one short and sweet. The Dunes Golf Club is your best bet. It has just been re-done, and is usually in good shape.
Everyone say hello to Karl!
Karl is the tiny baby loggerhead sea turtle I found in our garage one day. He was just days old, and his body was smaller than a golf ball! When he hatched, he got confused, and instead of going into the Gulf, he crawled all the way up the beach, traversed our boardwalk, and made his way into the garage. I quickly called CROW who told me to put him in a Tupperware container with a damp paper towel, and bring him to them. When we dropped him off, they told me they would check him out, give him some turtle fluids, and re-release him into the Gulf the next day. My mom and I wanted to go see him off with a ‘bon voyage’ balloon, but we refrained. I later read that sea turtles spend 25 years swimming around the globe, before returning where they were hatched, So hopefully I’ll run into him 24 years from now!
captiva
Once you get the lay of the land, people will start telling you to venture up to Captiva Island, and you should! A little island off of the western tip of Sanibel, Captiva is much smaller then Sanibel, but is quite charming. It’s home to a few very well known restaurants and fun things to do.
The Bubble Room is a must if you have kids! Or even if you don’t have kids- it’s great either way!
Mucky Duck is probably the most famous, as it has quite the storied history. The building started out as an Inn, and over time was bought and sold until it’s current owner bought the building in 1975.
Key Lime Bistro is a cute little spot, serving all things key lime, and some fun takes on fresh fish.
Cantina Captiva is a great little island Mexican joint. If you’re craving some fajitas or a margarita, head here!
The Green Flash has been serving up the world’s best fried clams since they opened their doors in 1994.
As I mentioned above, YOLO water sports calls Captiva home.
There are some really fun shops in Chadwick Square be sure to stop into.
my favorite traditions
I thought I’d let you in on a few secrets of the island that even the locals won’t tell you about. One thing you absolutely have to make time for is watching a sunset or ten with a cold Summer Shandy, and trying to catch a green flash. A green flash is an optic phenomena that can occur just after the sun sets, during which a small emerald green ball of light is visible right above the horizon. I’ve only seen it 3 times in my life, so you have to be pretty lucky to catch it, but it is something so special to see.
Along the same lines, I make a point to get up for one sunrise every time I'm on Sanibel. It is an early morning, and the beach can be chilly in the winter months, but something about enjoying a sunrise on the beach, all alone, is so rejuvenating and refreshing. Grab a towel and a blanket, set your alarm for 10 minutes before first light, sneak down to the beach, sit on the towel and huddle under your blanket and take that time for yourself. Reflect, dream, take in the moment. And once the sun is up, I usually try to go back to bed for a couple of hours or so…