Sailing My Way Through the Norwegian Fjords
I won't lie, cruising can definitely be hit or miss. In my mind, it all comes down to the itinerary of the trip. If you pick a cruise that goes to places you can't get to on your own in the same amount of time, and places that are relatively off-the-beaten-path, then you're in for a real treat. Done right, cruising can be absolutely epic! So when we discovered the 7 Day Norse Legends itinerary from Holland America, I was sold.
After spending a few days in Amsterdam, we headed to board the MS Rotterdam in Rotterdam, and were so excited for the week ahead. Any cruise ship can seem daunting and enormous at first, and the idea of spending a week at sea with all 1,400 guests can be scary. But don't let that keep you from cruising. I promise, once you're aboard and have unpacked your room, you'll feel right at home.
One of my favorite parts of cruising is being able to check into your room, unpack all of your things, and stay in the same room while still getting to travel all over and see new places almost every day. You just couldn't do that without a cruise ship.
What's particularly nice about this Holland America itinerary is that you get an 'at sea' day right off the bat. While sailing north through the North Sea, you have ample time to sleep in, get the lay of the land, hit the spa, swim in the pool, and reflect on life as you look out at the open sea. Looking at the ocean from a cruise ship is much different than doing it from a beach somewhere. Something about knowing you truly are in the middle of nowhere helps inspire some of the best thoughts.
eidfjord
The first port of call was a tiny town called Øvre Eidfjord (by tiny I mean it has a population of under 1,000 according to Wikipedia). At first glance, the town can seem unassuming and almost like a ghost town, but I came to learn quickly that the sleepiness of it doubled as the charm. It was absolutely untouched, never been over run by tourists, almost no one in town knew English, there was one main street, one restaurant, two shops, and a liquor store. And somehow, amidst all of the quiet, I felt like I got a real taste of Norway.
Upon getting off of the ship, my parents and I decided to roam around, hoping to find a hiking trail and hike a little bit. Eventually a nice girl who sold me my favorite mittens told me about a short trail loop that would lead us past a beautiful lake, up a hill to a spot that overlooks the town and fjord, and then would end right back where we started. So off we went to explore our first taste of Norway!
I’ve always been a big fan of small-town America. I love cobble stoned streets adorned with gas-lit street lamps, lined with boutiques and old fashioned candy stores where all of the locals are so nice and welcoming, making sure their town feels just like your town. Øvre Eidfjord takes that feel to a whole new level. It is smaller than some of the smallest American towns, and it is very difficult to get to. You can’t just drive an hour to downtown Chicago and go shopping, or fly out of a major international airport. And at first that freaked me out, but then I started thinking that maybe it helps keep life simple. Uncomplicated. Easy? I guess I’d have to live there to test my theory. But life in this tiny Norwegian town sure seemed pretty beautiful to me.
Ålesund
After having experienced one of the sweetest and most beautiful towns I could have imagined, I wasn’t quite sure how the rest of the trip could measure up. Waking up to the ship docking in Ålesund, the cool, drizzly weather didn’t hype me up too much, until I looked outside at the city. From the 7th floor of the ship, I was able to get a pretty good view. Since the city is built on a row of islands extending out into the ocean, there are bridges and canals everywhere, which make walking the preferred method of transportation- some of the pedestrian bridges are so photogenic! The buildings are all quite colorful- between the varying hues of cream and off-white, to rusty brick red, to sunflower yellow, and some green roofs, it is a pretty little gem of a town that sits at the start of the Geirangerfjord.
Ålesund is a big city, especially compared to Øvre Eidfjord, known for it's colorful, art-nouveau style architecture. With its population of around 47,000 people, it definitely is more happenin'! We started the day by going on a quick walking tour, climbing up to the Fjellstua lookout, having lunch in a cozy little cafe along one of the waterways, and then catching a cab and going through the Atlantic Sea Park. Since Ålesund is right on the coast, the Sea Park is sort of an aquarium meets city park. There are outdoor exhibits of otters and penguins, you can walk around, explore, picnic outside on a nice day, and then go inside to see all kinds of sea creatures.
Just before heading back to the ship, I stumbled upon a little glass-blowing factory. From what I gathered, it was family owned and operated, where the old man walked to work everyday, made some beautiful vases and glasses, and then sold them to passersby. I remember buying a small, round, cloudy grey vase that day in Ålesund, smiling awkwardly when I realized the man spoke no English, (and unfortunately my Norwegian wasn't quite up to snuff). But the scars and burns on his hands told a story on their own, one that didn't need words or pictures.
Geirangerfjord
Odds are, you can't pronounce the name of the next place we stopped. Don't worry, I couldn't either until we got there and I embarrassingly asked the coffee shop owner who laughed and explained it to me as she made my latte. (Guy-rang-er) Regardless of whether or not that makes it easier, Geirangerfjord is easily one of the most famous fjords in all of Norway, and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. It winds its way 8 miles into the country, until you get to the town of Geiranger. The fjord itself is surrounded by some of the steepest snow-capped mountains in Norway, and has no habitable coastline- which is great because it is even more untouched and unspoiled than it would be if there were roads and towns along the water.
When we hopped onto the tender from our ship and went to shore, I quickly realized that the actual town of Geiranger was much much smaller than any I've been to before (population 250 according to Wikipedia). It is primarily a tourist town, and in high season, it sees a lot of traffic. My parents and I decided to do a bike tour from the summit of the nearby Mount Dalsnibba (approx. 5,000ft) down to the fjord. We were fitted for helmets, got neon yellow reflective vests, picked a bike, and were driven to the top of the mountain.
There is a little lodge at the top that usually has stunning views of a lake, but the 6 or so feet of snow on the ground and the blizzard that ensued that day made for a winter wonderland (in June!)
We started our ride in the snow (which was quite pleasant!!), and stopped just about every five minutes to warm our hands up, and for a quick photo-op! Dang, Geirangerfjord is beautiful.
The day we biked was pretty chilly, but thankfully my parents and I dressed in plenty of layers. (How cute are they biking together in the pic above?!) We warmed up with some soup for lunch upon returning to town, and then shopped our way back to catch the tender to get back to the ship. I wish we could have seen the town without all of the other cruisers (there were 2 other ships in the port that day with ours) swamping the town. I think it would be a blast to just sit in the cafe or hotel lobby and write for a while with no one else around.
Bergen
With 280,000 people, Bergen is the second largest city in Norway. Somehow amidst the size, Bergen packs so much charm. The majority of the city burned down in 1702 so things have been built or rebuilt since then, including Bryggen- a row of buildings on the wharf which made up the city center when it was founded in 1070 A.D. Bryggen is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, even after having been rebuilt, and is home to some of the coolest stores, cafes, and a museum today.
the walkways between buildings in Bryggen were beautiful- some of the windows jutted out above the street, making it seem more narrow and medieval
After stopping for lunch and shopping through Bryggen, we hopped onto a funicular that took us to the top of a neighboring hill where we could hike around and catch some panoramic views of the city and it's metropolitan area.
Rich with beauty, history, culture, and charm, Bergen is a must-visit when in Norway. In fact, all of the places mentioned above should be visited during your lifetime. They offer different experiences unique to Norway, and serve as the perfect places to get away from your busy lives, reconnect with nature, and enjoy your vacation.